Ribbonwood Retreat Finalists in the Leading Light Business Awards

When we first looked at the application for the Leading Lights Business Awards we were not quite sure if we were up to it, but with some trepidation we decided we would give it a go.

The blurb read, 'this event offers an ideal opportunity to celebrate business excellence in our region and acknowledge the valuable contribution West Coast businesses are making to our local economy. The Development West Coast Leading Light Business Excellence Awards attracts the most progressive business minds on the West Coast, all vying to be the best in the West.'​

​The Covid-19 pandemic has been tough for business owners in Franz Josef and Fox Glacier. A report found 518 jobs have been lost in Glacier Country while businesses still standing were only operating at 20 per cent normal capacity. Domestic tourists were the life for some villages in New Zealand but not our area. We lie a couple of hours drive from the Hokitika airport and six hours drive from the nearest city of Christchurch, too far for a weekend away.

Our Bed and Breakfast had been at high capacity before the pandemic crisis hit. It wound up being shuttered for more than two years. Reopening this summer only saw a tiny trickle of guests. But on reflection we think the entire experience, which included the draining of our savings, made us more determined to stay involved with a range of sustainability initiatives   — our core mission.

​The pandemic brought time; time for ourselves, and time to work on our business. The time to rest, reflect and reset meant there were no longer those day to day distractions or excuses and I was always making to tackle those tasks I would have otherwise put off. The opportunity to take up business mentoring support helped give us confidence to continue developing and growing our business despite losing our guests and not knowing how we were going to keep up our momentum.

We did make it into the finals for the sustainability category and had a spectacular night out. We received the promo video above from Dave VisionCo. Dave worked hard to give us this quality production. 

Here's the credits...

• Gratitude to Development West Coast for all the support with business mentoring and helping us to survive. As well for hosting the awards dinner and for selecting us as finalists.
• Thanks to Dave @ VisionCo for the video.
• Kia ora Department of Conservation for sponsoring our award category.

See more about the support we received:

​When I first put up our hands for a day as a gorsebuster, Barry sent a message explaining that we could start with breakfast, a barista coffee, would be equipped with all the tools, join in for dinner, entertainment and he was “stoked to get local support and participation.” I thought that sounded great.  

Barry and Gemma from Ōkārito Kayaks organise, lead, equip, accommodate and feed volunteers for a “Kiwi working bee” week in autumn each year, targeting gorse around the lagoon. Gorse has spread through the waterway, creating a dominant canopy over the low growing, natural lagoon vegetation  

My day being a gorsebuster started with that delicious coffee then standing back in awe at the well-oiled organisation going on about me. I felt a bit overwhelmed, but there was someone every step of the way to show us the ropes as we gathered our tools and kitted up. Gemma was watching out for us and gave us a push off in the kayak as we headed off on a lovely paddle across the channel to the island. Experienced hands were there to show us what to do, then we set about our work chopping away. The work required some physical effort, but it was a positive job for the environment and I was in the company of some really interesting people. We chatted away over our work, taking moments between to look around at the spectacular mountains and pristine waterways.   

​Okārito is home to just a few dozen people, but over 70 species of birds. Once a gold mining town, like so many West Coast settlements, it’s surrounded by ocean, wetlands, cliffs and native forest, with the mighty Southern Alps as a backdrop.   

My friend who was there the whole week explained she” felt a sense of achievement, had broadened her horizons and had some wonderful memories, while also benefitting the environment and wildlife, too.”  

This is not a week's holiday, nothing like booking an Airbnb for a week somewhere relaxing. It’s an entirely different experience where you find out about the local lifestyle. Gorsebusters' huge success is a testament to the strong relationship between local community and conservation minded people. 
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Kathryn Ryan from Radio New Zealand talked to Barry.

Photo credit for these three photos: Petr Hlavacek | ​NZICESCAPES IMAGES

Living in Japan’s volcanic archipelago, tramping every weekend was de rigueur for me. Passing local hikers on the mountain tracks, they would ask where was I from. When I replied New Zealand, they replied with hushed awe ‘ah Milford.’ It seemed everyone knew this place whether they had been there or not.
Our guests often comment on this tramp, speaking with reverence of their experiences having walked it. 


​I have scant memories of the first time we walked the track fifteen years ago, mainly because the weather was overcast and cloudy. This time when we began the track in clear skies and warm sunshine, the scenery and track seemed like it was all new. As the vistas unfolded with the steep mountains stretching out, I felt that despite all the walkers, the track was unspoiled and it was easy to slip the crowds and be alone. 

​With our glaciers, mountain peaks, forests and farmland in Franz Josef, there is plenty to see right here. When the pull to explore kicks in, we are fortunate that just 17 kilometres away lies Ōkārito, tucked just a little way off SH6, right here on the South Island’s West Coast.  

Ōkārito is home to just a few dozen people, but over 70 species of birds. Once a gold mining town, like so many West Coast settlements, it’s surrounded by ocean, wetlands, cliffs and native forest, with the mighty Southern Alps as a backdrop.  

When chatting with them, it often occurs to me that my guests seem to know the rest of New Zealand better than me! We have always been quick to fly away from New Zealand. Well now seem the ideal time to 'do something new New Zealand!'

First stop was where Jo hails from; Wellington. It is always great to catch up his his sister Sooze. Having my bike was great! Straight off to the cities best viewpoint, Mt Victoria at 196 m. This ride affords a good puff and a reminder of all there is to love about this place. With many hilly walking trails, beaches,  birdlife and the ferry on it's back door to the South Island, Wellington is an excellent place to be.

​​One of my favourite rides is to the Douglas Walk in the Glacier Valley. The bike is abandoned, jogging shoes donned and off round the 4 km loop taking in these fab views. I can never take enough photos of the moods of Peters pool, a lake which reflects the glacier. It was created by the retreating glacier dropping a chunk of melted ice that formed into a kettle lake about 1800 AD.

​Visiting the glaciers in New Zealand is unique as they are within easy driving and walking distance from the main highway.

When we first arrived in Franz Josef in 2000, we would don our boots and walk up to the terminal face. There we would put on our crampons and head up onto the ice, following the guides tracks and cutting our own. In the 1900s tracks and bridges were built to provide access onto the glaciers. Early photos show hikers with some nails in the soles of their shoes and women in long dresses exploring with mountain guides! In 1955 a photo shows my mother being guided onto the ice with far more suitable equipment and clothing.

Up until 2010 it was still possible use crampons to hike up on the ice from the terminal face without needing a helicopter flight. Foot access onto the Fox and Franz Josef glaciers is now limited to helicopter flights. Despite an advance in the mid 2000’s, both glaciers have been shrinking and the terminals of the glaciers receding. The rocky terrain below each of the glacier terminals is too dangerous to traverse on foot.
Both glaciers have periodically advanced, but are several kilometres shorter than the maximum extent reached during the mini-ice age of the 1700’s. During the previous global ice age which finished approximately 15,000 years ago, these glaciers reached nearly to the current coast line, 15 kilometres west of the present glaciers extent.

Walking access to view the glaciers has remained problematical, caused by storm events and river erosion of the valley floor. Franz Josef access track has been re-routed as the river flowing from under the glacier has changed course, requiring construction of new tracks on the valley walls. In 2017 at Fox glacier, a massive debris flow from Mills Creek, a side creek in the valley, forced the main river to cut into the west bank where the access road was and is now closed.

While glaciers around the world are retreating, the Franz Josef glacier is still the most accessible to visit in the world. It is an easy walk along ancient river beds through valleys with steep mountain sides. One of the most impressive features is the bed rock with vertical stripes, contrasting with the horizontal gouges caused by rocks imbedded from when the glacier scraped past. It remains a favourite walk for us though we have to leave our crampons behind.

​Roberts Point Track has great views of the glacier from the viewing platform, rainforest and fascinating historical features.

Over the years tramping this track, we have always set off in good weather conditions but invariably the afternoon cloud arrives with hill showers, though the village not far away stays bathed in sun! The track then becomes slippery with slow progress. Whenever we walk it, we have a chance to think about our surroundings, and marvel on the old and new.

Roberts Point track was constructed in 1906, funded by a grant from the “Department of Tourism and Hot Spas”, which was set up to promote tourism. Providing access to the Franz Josef glacier, which was higher and terminated much further down the valley than it is today. A technological feat in track building, 'Hendes Gallery' was a cantilevered or suspended walkway which traversed a steep section of bedrock. This gallery is still in use with the wooden steps replaced in the 90’s. The supports are made of forged iron, driven into holes that were drilled into the bedrock and secured with molten metal and still in excellent condition today. 

The impressive new Roberts Point Swing bridge (111m) replaced a wooden staircase which was destroyed by a rockfall. Swing bridges like these are common on New Zealand tramping tracks. They are suspended from two metal cables, and can span a considerable distance over a river or gorge.
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A new observation deck and picnic table high above the glacial ice is a welcome respite at the end of the track and affords magnificent views of the Franz Josef glacier, towering rock faces and waterfalls.

Climbing Alex Knob will reward trampers with some the best views of Franz Josef Glacier. This is not a stroll in the park though, it will take  eight hours with a steady uphill climb of over 1000m.  This is a tramping track with rough terrain so you will need to be prepared climb over windfalls and watch out for obstacles (I have been known to forget to look upward and banged my head on branches jutting out.)  The track zig zags endlessly on, but the thick forest and bird life are good reasons to stop and take rests. Rata Lookout is the first welcome respite with good views of the glacier far below, then further on Christmas Lookout and views up ahead of the summit. The next part is our favourite with the sub alpine plants making a picturesque garden including shrub daisies such as Leatherwood, Dracophyllum  Hebes and Coprosma, continuing on climbing and zig zagging  to the 1303 summit. 360 degree views await here, with the Southern Alps, the Tasman Sea, the tiny village below,  while the whole Franz Josef Glacier lies before you. ​